Incredible women from Perumpally

« One day, one discovery »: a journey to meet extraordinary people and beyond to sunshine 2021… Backwaters Kerala D-11

After a few enchanting hours aboard Indian trains, we happily arrive at Kayankulam station.

We go down on the quay, not quite sure we are in the right place because we missed the Latin alphabet sign and we are unable to read those written in Malayalam. So we stay for a while in uncertainty…

… when Akhilesh appeared. The two somewhat misguided looking Europeans that we were then become expected guests and treated with exquisite politeness, « yes sir », our new friend keeps repeating. On our way to Perumpally, on the shores of the Arabian Sea.

And so, barely half an hour later, we discovered Perumpally and our house on stilts above the waters of the Backwaters for the first time.

Perumpally, if you look at Google maps, it’s a narrow strip of land between the Arabian Sea and the lakes of the Backwaters. No more than 200m wide between the different waters that surround you on either side.

We quickly appreciate the serenity of the place and enjoy being able to settle down for a few days in peace and quiet. In just a few moments, we feel at home. Outside or inside, everyone goes about his or her activities, according to his or her needs and desires of the moment.

As the hours go by, we get to know the group of women from Perumpally who welcome us in their guest house. They are all more extraordinary than the others.

With them we taste tea and start to get to know each other.

In the evening, they bring us a delicious dinner based on freshly caught fish from the waters of Lake Perumpally. This is an opportunity to continue discovering each other a little more. These women, united in an association, Les rivages de l’amour, have been working for years to clean the waters of the lagoon of all environmental pollution and are striving to repopulate them with fish to stimulate biodiversity.

The first evening is already the occasion for a good deal of laughter. But, falling from fatigue, we quickly end up in our room for our first night over the water.

The next morning, when we see them arrive and laugh at all their beautiful white teeth, we wonder what they have been up to. They seem to be busy with preparations that escape us.

A little later in the day, after visiting the surroundings, approaching the waterfront from the left side of the house, we discover their project: to launch ourselves, on board a recycled pedal boat, to cross the backwaters. Indeed, our friends from Perumpally are fervent ecologists and recycle everything, even an old pedal boat into a rowboat. Following the 2004 Tsunami, which devastated the area, they even moved this house on stilts from one side of the lagoon to the other. They now have at heart not to pollute the water of the lagoon any more as the tourist house-boats, with engine, which furrow the backwaters. Our friends at Perumpally are now campaigning for a solidarity economy and the introduction of eco-tourism.

So here we go with the husband of one of them, who is also wondering if we are going to pass this first test.

Akhilesh and the group of women watch as our frail boat moves away.

They stay for a long time on the small quay. Would they be worried? We are the first to experiment with the concept!

After a few more bursts of laughter, we let ourselves be taken in by the beauty of the place.

The man handles his pole with perfect mastery.

And we let ourselves be peacefully guided.

We discover the house on stilts from the other side.

Children, playing on the shores of a small island, wave at us and ask for our names.

We are amazed by the surrounding flora and fauna.

Our little house now seems very small in the lagoon.

The sun is starting to decline.

The birds settle down for the night.

With wide-eyed eyes we detect the sunset on the shore.

Back in the garden, our friends set up a whole kitchen for the time of our trip. They brought gas, utensils and all sorts of ingredients. We are going to be able to learn about Ayurvedic cooking.

The base: red onions, chilli pepper and turmeric.

Next, the pestle is used to crush the garlic, ginger and spices. It starts to smell good.

It is also necessary to prepare a paste of rice and coconut powder.

Heat the oil for frying.

Coat the small sardines from the lake in the spices.

Eyes filled with happiness, rejoicing at finding one’s place in the midst of these incredible women.

All the senses are awakened, a festival for the eyes and the sense of smell.

The taste buds are already active.

In the time it takes to prepare the rest, the sardines are left warm in a banana leaf.

It’s time to unmould the steamed coconut rice roll.

A delicate operation that requires our full attention.

Successful operation with the insertion of a few carrots for the touch of colour. This is essential for combinations. All that remains is to enjoy these exquisite dishes and to move the kitchen across the street. This is done by these funny ladies who take it all in a few turns of the wheelbarrow. The concept is well tried and tested.