From Nayalpul to Gandruk with Prem and Ram

Going on a trek is a bit like taking a trip to the heart of the journey. This provides the same sensations as those which precede big departures: effervescence, excitement, vibration, doubts, worries, questions, apprehensions tempted by jubilation. It’s once again the opportunity to feel this explosive mix of emotions, the one that everyone feels before flying into the unknown which is always a little scary but which is so attractive.

-Did we take just what we needed? For cold, heat, rain? Will I be able to do without this and that? Who will we meet? Will the landscapes really be as beautiful as we have been predicted? What will the weather be like? Is this really going to go up as hard as we’ve read? Will I be up to this completely crazy project? And then suddenly, it’s the departure: the time has come to let go. All that remains is the deep joy, the lively emotion, the thrill of the feet setting out, ready to once again discover a corner of the vast world and its inhabitants. The brain then tunes into the positive waves of discovery and abandons the pre-departure ruminations about passports, e-visas and so on… Everything is played, the dice are rolled, let’s go for adventure!

The day before our departure, we received a visit from Prem, our great guide who came to introduce us to his nephew Ram. It is in their company that we will spend the next few days and make our somewhat crazy dream come true. Appointment is given to us for the morning at dawn. Jovial and joking, Prem exudes the joy of living. Ram has a certain discretion tinged with peace. It is therefore a pair made up of two different but complementary people who will help us meet the challenge.

We start our walk in Nayapul. At this point, the track is really accessible to everyone, which is rather reassuring. Short stop for our trekking permits in the Annapurna massif.

A little stamp and we are authorized to enter the Annapurna conservation area. For those who have dreamed of it for years, there is something truly moving about it.

We take the time for a photo break in front of the sign that welcomes us to the ACA zone.

All smiles, Ram poses with us; we are starting to form a great team!

We will now walk peacefully in the countryside, leaving the noise and hassle of civilization far behind us. This first part already offers us a real disconnection. It’s very calming and gives us the confidence that these few days will go well.

We pass through very colorful corners where the essential Tibetan prayer flags flutter here and there. Even in the most lost corners, we will always be carried by these beats in the wind which are so many prayers. It’s already very hot and it’s time to take off our jackets. We stop in the shade of a bunch of bananas. Nature is magnificent.

In the distance, we can see the Machhapuchhare or Fish Tail which owes its name to its summit in the shape of a fish tail.

Here it stands before us in all its majesty as the very desirable goal to achieve. But the mountain is sacred, preserved from humans, forbidden to trekkers, climbers and other mountain enthusiasts… which makes it even more fascinating.

Throughout our walk, we come across charming little restaurants…

…in which the dishes are always tidy and well presented. I am very sensitive to these touches of attention. Prem stops here and there to exchange a few words, delighted to meet people he hasn’t seen for several years due to the Covid epidemic. The mountain and its inhabitants seem to have no secrets for him.

New stop for lunch break. It’s at one of her friends’ houses. The house is located on the banks of the Modi Khola River. Seated at the table we discover the environment while enjoying a good cup of ginger, lemon and honey.

Meanwhile the cook is busy in the garden picking the ingredients for our meal like this plump cabbage which will be in the spotlight for the Dal-bhat…

…and ginger to spice up the dish. Here as everywhere else throughout the trek, we will be amazed by the freshness of the food, often just picked before being cooked. No wonder Dal-bhat has the reputation of providing 24 hours of “power” as our Nepalese friends say.

And, yes, as you can see: a good cup of ginger and a Dal-bhat gets you back in shape!

A quick overview to help you discover this little corner of paradise near Chandrakot.

A woman in colorful clothing is active in the river bed.

Above, a suspension bridge allows you to cross the Modi Khola. Even if it’s hot and we need to rest, curiosity wins and gives us the impetus to go and discover what’s on the other side.

A fisherman casts his nets on the beautiful turquoise blue waters.

As it unfolds, the net creates a superb rainbow above the blue waters.

But after having savored the delicious Dal-bhat, it is time to get back on the path and tackle the famous Nepalese stairs.

We are captivated by the small traditional houses that dot the mountain.

And come on, it goes up and up. I thought that going up the stairs of Montmartre once or twice would be enough to victoriously face the steps we would have to climb every day. And in the end, it was indeed victorious… but not without some pain, aches and cramps 🙂 At the same time, to take on certain challenges, before taking the plunge, it is better not to know the exact difficulty, nor the height. … because it would be the risk of giving up on the adventure due to lack of confidence in our abilities… On the other hand, we need good guides who know! Adventurous, yes, reckless, no!

So, to overcome certain challenges, you just need to be surrounded by the right people. Prem plays along, jokes, gets ahead of us, knowing exactly when to take breaks. He’s a real mountain guide, super nice, very funny but who doesn’t let himself be fooled and who knows how to push us just enough to allow us to reach the limit that will make us take this small step of more of which we do not believe ourselves capable and which will give us so much joy and pride. Jean-Yves knows me so well that he will notice before me that I am running out of breath climbing in Prem’s footsteps because, as focused as I am on the steps to climb, I forget to breathe! And finally Ram, the attentive philosopher who always stays behind me and who regularly gives me the magic formula when he sees that I am starting to stumble: BISTARE! This famous motto of Nepalese trekkers: take it slowly my friend, there is no hurry, we have time…

Out of breath, I’m as red as a crayfish. Seeing me Prem decides I need a break. We stop near a farm. I ask if it is possible to use the toilets: no problem, just cross the stable, go around the buffalo who will not move a bit and open the door just behind.

I catch my breath and try not to forget that Pranayama is the key to life, the key to a well-balanced, peaceful life that maintains calm and serenity, even in the worst moments… I will remember the lesson for my daily life.

Turning around, we succumb to the charm of espalier crops. We realize how lucky we are and understand that our efforts are not in vain. What beauty, what charm these little houses scattered along the path.

Resuming our walk, we see on a roof small bouquets of cauliflowers which have been left to dry in preparation for winter.

The view becomes more and more majestic and makes us completely forget the efforts that the climb requires of our muscles and joints. The beauty and calm penetrate us deeply, it is an incredible experience. The mountain is full of life and at every turn we meet villagers who watch over the herds, who are active in the fields, who cultivate, arrange the cramped space between the mountain and the void.

We are in full magic in front of so much beauty.

Buffaloes graze quietly in the meadows, unaware of the surrounding beauty.

The work of men to create and maintain these farming terraces fascinates us and makes us forget the number of steps we are climbing.

This country is simply magical. Some people say that we don’t know if paradise exists, but that Nepal is real.

A little further on, we come across a woman sifting mustard seeds.

A little further on, a farmer watches over her buffaloes.

Curious, they come to take a closer look at these intruders.

In the distance, we first have the impression of seeing a tree moving. Could this be one of those hallucinations caused by altitude or fatigue?

But no, it’s about a sherpa woman who harvests fodder to feed the animals.

Prem advances calmly while we pass yet another convoy of mules. Precious animals which go every day to supply the villages in the heights. Prem takes great care to keep our motivation intact, not to let the slightest bit of discouragement creep into us. He knows he has to lead us to the top so he has nice surprises in store for us and gives us time to savor each of them. The landscapes are breathtaking and he knows it.

At each turn of the mountain, we are happy to see what we have already climbed and we discover with hearts full of joy, the place where we had lunch… all the way down below! We hope then that we are not very far from our goal… Prem smiles… We must have thought too hard!

In the next village, we discovered a woman weaving bamboo.

We are captivated by the peaceful work and the care she puts into her work.

Another short break just before crossing a bridge made of large wooden logs.

We taste small local bananas; a treat and a real moment of happiness.

A little further up, just as we think we are touching the sky and have finally arrived at the end of the world, we come across a woman and her baby. She’s focused on… her cell phone. We exchange a few words through our guides and ask if she agrees to let us take a photo of her, as there is something unexpected about this encounter. She smiles at us and tells us that she is just watching Tik-Tok. And to think that we sometimes don’t have a network in the heart of Paris… the Internet will definitely always remain a mystery!

Prem tells us that we are getting closer to the goal. The landscapes are sublime.

He makes a call which suggests that the arrival is (finally!) close 🙂

I am proud of myself and overwhelmed when I see where we left this afternoon.

Jean-Yves’s face lights up when he passes the Ghandruk portico. This is our first destination!

The emotion is strong, we are happy and proud of ourselves. A large part of the success is due to our duo Prem and Ram. They knew how to motivate us while inviting us to take care of ourselves when necessary. A model of humanity that does good and gives food for thought on what we still want to change in our lives. It’s a real blessing to have traveled together and it’s only the first day.

After a good wash, a good Dal-bhat, we admire for a few minutes the night which now hides the mountain and we collapse on our beds because tomorrow the day rises at 5 o’clock and the spectacle promises to be breathtaking!

More in a future article :

https://nathjy.travel.blog/2023/11/04/trek-memorable-sur-le-balcon-des-annapurna-suite/

By Nathalie et Jean-Yves